RDY-MINI-5022-V2 Hubmotor: Battle Ready Weapon Motor

$62.00

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Motor Option 1700kV Complete Motor V2 1100kV Complete Motor V2 Replacement Clamshell Magnet Ring/Outer Hub (V1 ONLY)

Quantity

Description

The Ultimate Battle-Ready Weapon Motor - Now for Ants and Small Beetle Weapons!

Taking a good product and making it great, the new V2 redesign has major quality-of-life improvements! The V2 motors will stay a consistent width regardless of blade width, can support up to 10mm or 3/8" wide blades, and changing blades only requires removing 4 screws instead of 7 with no need for pull tools! The entire motor has also been redesigned to improve single-side mount support. And all this plus a few grams lighter weight than V1.
Blades that fit V1 will also work with V2.
Download the 5022 CAD Here!

The RDY-5022 Hubmotor is an evolution beyond anything available for combat robots before. Enter the space age, with high-strength 6061 aluminum construction. Massive bearings. Battle-hardened epoxied magnets. Ultra-flexible high-temp silicone wires. Zero weapon belts. These are just some of what you get with your very own hubmotor!

This video shows the V1 version. V2 has the same motor performance characteristics as V1, and the same bearings, but a heavily modified mechanical design.

What's Included when you buy a Complete Motor:

1X RDY-5022 V2 complete motor, combat-ready out of the box!
4X M3 socket head screws to mount your weapon blade (you will need longer screws for >5mm thick blade stacks)
1X M4 center screw

What's Included when you buy a Magnet Ring:

2X RDY-5022 orange outer hub clamshell parts
1X RDY-5022 Magnet Ring (works for both 1100kV and 1700kV V1 motors)
6X M3 flathead screws to clamp halves together

This motor is intended to be mounted to a rigid robot frame component and as such does not come with a mounting plate or bracket. You should design to mount BOTH SIDES of the motor to your robot, with frame rails exactly 22mm apart. If you must mount only one side of the motor, always mount the side with wires as this side is connected to the central shaft.

Specs and Usage

Specs

Dimensions: ~50mm diameter, 22mm length
Stator Size: Roughly 22 X 6mm
Weight: 70 grams (2.5 oz, 0.154 lb) without mount weapon screws, <72.5g with.
Gigantic 6704 bearings
KV: 1700kV or 1100kV (This is approximate, actual KV may vary by +/-10%)
Voltage: 2S-4S (be mindful of temperatures for 1700kV on 4S or higher)
Power and Current: test data listed below. Our 35A ESCs are a perfect match.
Mount with 8X M4 bolts, MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE NOT TO USE SCREWS THAT THREAD TOO FAR IN OR YOU WILL DESTROY THE MOTOR COILS!
No circlips, belts, or set screws!
Super strong neodymium magnets
Epoxied magnets and stator coils for extra durability
High-temperature copper windings
20AWG silicone wires rated to 200 degrees C
Winding Resistance: 151mOhms for 1700kV, 250mOhms for 1100kV
V2 supports blades any thickness up to ~10mm or 3/8", though a countersunk blade of 12mm or 1/2" may work
- Older V1 clamshell design supports up to 5mm thick blade stacks, thinner may require using a spacer

3D Model Available Now!

If you aren't sure what kV is best for your setup, or want to get an idea of weapon tip speeds for a variety of blade diameters and voltages, check out this handy tip speed spreadsheet!

CAD download includes Sonic's blade with the proper spline geometry needed. We recommend offsetting the spline by about 0.005" (0.15mm) from the actual motor profile for a better weapon blade fit.

Warning: The outside of this motor is like a big heatsink and can get very hot!

Power and ESCs

For best results, pair with our very own with 35A ESC, AM32 firmware pre-programmed. Note this ESC is programmed bidirectional out of the box, but can be switched to one direction using a USB Programmer.

This is a custom motor and not a conventional one so a propeller chart is a useless stat to compare this to. You should use a 30A or greater rated ESC.

Actual current draw and torque are highly dependent on your exact ESC and configuration, battery, voltage, and loading. Air resistance and tip speed for your weapon play a huge role in the current draw of your system. Even reducing speed by 20% might cut air resistance in half.

Test Data V2 1100kV - Using 3" diameter 0.207" thick SledgeHog Blade and 70A Pariah AM32 ESC (35A ESC is fine for most, this was to remove any possible bottleneck)

3S/12V Spinup Peak Current 20.4 Amps (222W), continuous current 7A (~80W)
RPM at 12V ~12650RPM
4S/16V Spinup Peak Current 25 Amps (331W), continuous current 7A (~111W)
RPM at 16V ~17160RPM
6S/22V Spinup Peak Current 42.3 Amps (850W), continuous current 8.5A (~194W)
RPM at 22V ~25190RPM

Test Data V2 1700kV - Same setup and blade as above.

3S/12V Spinup Peak Current 46.6Amps (450W), continuous current (~140W)
RPM at 12V ~19550 RPM
4S/16V Spinup Peak Current 50.7Amps (590W), continuous current (~190W)
RPM at 16V ~26500 RPM
6S/22V (not recommended) 67.5A peak (1228W), continuous roughly 15A (~336W)
RPM at 22V ~38000 RPM (Bearings will overheat if sustained)

Note: the above tests were run on a brand new motor, as the bearings wear in and grease warms up the continuous current may fall much lower.

Click here for the test data spreadsheet:

Disclaimer

Warning: combat robots are not toys! They are extremely dangerous. Click here for a safety video.

Testing a robot with an active spinning weapon should never be done while maintaining a line of sight with the robot. Ideally, you should be testing inside an enclosed box or arena with at least 1/4" thick polycarbonate windows or top to see through, and 1/2” or thicker plywood or MDF construction. Operation (Including testing) outside of a suitable arena or test box could cause serious injury. By purchasing this product you acknowledge that you are responsible for the safe use of this product and that Team Just ‘Cuz Robotics or its employees are not liable for any injuries or damages.

V1 was good. But the wires are too weak

In September last year I got one of these for my robot Re:run, but during an event I was soldering the red wire, the yellow wire just fell off. nothing on my fault it just said nope. so I bought a second one and it a lot better but some ESC issues made me fore a forfit. I'm hoping I can get a v2 and actually have my robot work. because before it was so fast and soooo silent. I hope I can get my bot to be an absolute killer.