Just 'Cuz Robotics

RDY-MINI-5022-V2 Hubmotor: Battle Ready Weapon Motor

$62.00

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Motor Option 1700kV Complete Motor V2 1100kV Complete Motor V2 Replacement Clamshell Magnet Ring/Outer Hub (V2 ONLY) Replacement 1100kV Stator (V2 ONLY) Replacement 1700kV Stator (V2 ONLY)

The Ultimate Battle-Ready Weapon Motor for Ants and Small Beetle Weapons!

Check out how NHRL Rank 1 beetleweight The Wall Pt.2 won NHRL in February 2026 with this motor powering their hammersaw!

There's no such thing as "good enough". We took what was great and made it even better!
Download the 5022 CAD Here!

Lots of blade design CAD files are now available for free! Note: a blade is not included with the purchase of a motor.

Click here for a comparison chart for all our hubmotor offerings.

The RDY-5022 Hubmotor is an evolution beyond anything available for combat robots before. The V2.1 design update brings even better materials. 2024-T3 aluminum outer hubs, epoxy-coated stator wires, and more durable magnet ring construction, without changing anything builders already loved on the original.

Sonic, 1lb combat robot with 5022 mounted

What's Included when you buy a Complete Motor:

1X RDY-5022 V2.1 complete motor, combat-ready out of the box!

What's Included when you buy a Magnet Ring:

1X RDY-5022 Magnet Ring (works for both 1100kV and 1700kV motors)

This motor is intended to be mounted to a rigid robot frame component and as such does not come with a mounting plate or bracket. You should design to mount BOTH SIDES of the motor to your robot, with frame rails exactly 22mm apart. If you must mount only one side of the motor, always mount the side with wires as this side is connected to the central shaft.

Specs and Usage

Specs

Dimensions: ~50mm diameter, 22mm length
Stator Size: Roughly 22 X 6mm
Weight: 70 grams (2.5 oz, 0.154 lb) without mount weapon screws, <72.5g with.
Gigantic 6704 bearings
KV: 1700kV or 1100kV (This is approximate; actual KV may vary by +/-10%)
Voltage: 2S-4S (be mindful of temperatures for 1700kV on 4S or higher)
Power and Current: test data listed below. Our Tekko32 ESCs are a perfect match.
Mount with 8X M4 bolts, max 5mm depth. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE NOT TO USE SCREWS THAT THREAD TOO FAR IN OR YOU WILL DESTROY THE MOTOR COILS!
No circlips, belts, or set screws!
Super strong neodymium magnets
Epoxied magnets and stator coils for extra durability
High-temperature copper windings
20AWG silicone wires rated to 200 degrees C
Winding Resistance: 151mOhms for 1700kV, 250mOhms for 1100kV
V2 supports blades any thickness up to ~10mm or 3/8", though a countersunk blade of 12mm or 1/2" may work

3D Model Available Now!

If you aren't sure what kV is best for your setup, or want to get an idea of weapon tip speeds for a variety of blade diameters and voltages, check out this handy tip speed spreadsheet!

CAD download includes Sonic's blade with the proper spline geometry needed. We recommend offsetting the spline by about 0.005" (0.15mm) from the actual motor profile for a better weapon blade fit.

Warning: The outside of this motor is like a big heatsink and can get very hot!

Power and ESCs

For best results, pair with our very own Tekko32 ESC, AM32 firmware pre-programmed. Note this ESC is programmed singe directional out of the box, but can be switched to bidirectional using a USB Programmer.

This is a custom motor and not a conventional one so a propeller chart is a useless stat to compare this to. You should use a 30A or greater rated ESC.

Actual current draw and torque are highly dependent on your exact ESC and configuration, battery, voltage, and loading. Air resistance and tip speed for your weapon play a huge role in the current draw of your system. Even reducing speed by 20% might cut air resistance in half.

Test Data V2 1100kV - Using 3" diameter 0.207" thick SledgeHog Blade and 70A Pariah AM32 ESC (35A ESC is fine for most, this was to remove any possible bottleneck)

3S/12V Spinup Peak Current 20.4 Amps (222W), continuous current 7A (~80W)
RPM at 12V ~12650RPM
4S/16V Spinup Peak Current 25 Amps (331W), continuous current 7A (~111W)
RPM at 16V ~17160RPM
6S/22V Spinup Peak Current 42.3 Amps (850W), continuous current 8.5A (~194W)
RPM at 22V ~25190RPM

Test Data V2 1700kV - Same setup and blade as above.

3S/12V Spinup Peak Current 46.6Amps (450W), continuous current (~140W)
RPM at 12V ~19550 RPM
4S/16V Spinup Peak Current 50.7Amps (590W), continuous current (~190W)
RPM at 16V ~26500 RPM
6S/22V (not recommended) 67.5A peak (1228W), continuous roughly 15A (~336W)
RPM at 22V ~38000 RPM (Bearings will overheat if sustained)

Note: the above tests were run on a brand new motor, as the bearings wear in and grease warms up the continuous current may fall much lower.

Click here for the test data spreadsheet:

Disclaimer

Warning: combat robots are not toys! They are extremely dangerous. Click here for a safety video.

Testing a robot with an active spinning weapon should never be done while maintaining a line of sight with the robot. Ideally, you should be testing inside an enclosed box or arena with at least 1/4" thick polycarbonate windows or top to see through, and 1/2” or thicker plywood or MDF construction. Operation (Including testing) outside of a suitable arena or test box could cause serious injury. By purchasing this product you acknowledge that you are responsible for the safe use of this product and that Team Just ‘Cuz Robotics or its employees are not liable for any injuries or damages.

Hammer saw configuration robot

The motor is really great overall for this purpose. I know there is a new one just for hammer saws, but I had a design for it before the new version and it still holds up good.
Had the same motor for 3 events where it got a couple of vers and horisontals hitting it right in the weapon, and it still spins.
The bearing got a bit chrunchy after the second hit (that the hamer saw weapon did) but I get that the ball bearings are small, still it works and spinns.
Really impressed the magnets still didn't break.

One issue I have is that there is no limiter for the M4 mounting screws, if you use longer screws they can easily damage the stator. The website warns about this but still when you want the maximal thread engagement but half a turn more will break the motor, that is a bit nerve wracking every time I tighten the screws.
Also a bit of a downside for a hammer saw, the wires are ususaly too short to reach the electronics in the bot, that isn't mutch of a critisizm but just keep it in mind.

I run the 1700KV motor on 3S and the motor does get quite toasty even when just spinning a small weapon for just the time to strike with the saw,but it seams to be fine.

Overall beast of a motor, and for the price (if you are not outside the US) I don't know what could beat it. Really made the hammer saw archetype what it is today.
Even though I still have my first one running, I'm hooked and now have 3 extras.

State of the art

Top notch hub motor. Really excellent engineering in this product. Makes it easy to build a really competitive combat robot.

The perfect Beetle hammersaw motor

I have used these motors for three events spanning 12 fights and I have only needed to use 2 of the ones I bought, and that was because replacing an arm wholesale is easier than replacing the blade. The other 3 sit in a box waiting. Be sure to protect the phase wires and have some spare bearings, but this product is as good as you can ask for in a hubmotor at its size.

practically invincible

i’ve only lost one of these motors and that was from me not taping the wires down

we're so backalope

I've used this hubmotor in my beetleweight lifer vert Jackalope exactly as-is for nine months and ~40 fights in tandem with the 35A HakRC ESC. Even now, it continues to impress me with new levels of survivability and reliability, spinning masses up to 175g and going weapon on weapon with dumpster-winning driscs, behemoth beater bars, and terrifying horizontal spinners in the 3# weight class.

My only real reservation is the serviceability of the wire-side bearing, but if they keep being as durable as they have been thus far, then I won't really have much of a need to do any service actions in the first place. One phase wire (usually the yellow one) can be a bit stiff right where it exits the blue plate, but you can make up for that by leaving enough room on your upright/hammersaw arm. Would lope again.